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NEWS: CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2015

  • TEXT TESSA VON WALDERDORFF
    Bio photo_Tessa von Walderdorff

    TESSA VON WALDERDORFF

    Editor

    Tessa von Walderdorff is a third year student at Bard College, currently studying for a semester in Berlin. Though born in Manhattan, Tessa’s mother is a combination of Danish, Swiss, and French, while her father entirely German. A double major in Written Arts and French – fascinated by the interplay between body language and speech, translation and transformation, and reality and fiction. Other than journalistic writing, she focuses mostly on historical fiction and is currently working on a compilation of short stories. Her interests range from the poetic voice to industrial techno.

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Within a luxuriant greenhouse, beneath the dome of the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld illuminates the gaze of his audience with the new CHANEL Spring-Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection. The designer composes an ode to springtime in front of an audience of prestigious guests including CHANEL ambassadresses Vanessa Paradis, Kristen Stewart, Alice Dellal and Anna Mouglalis, the face of BLEU de CHANEL Gaspard Ulliel, the French actresses Clotilde Hesme and Alma Jodorowsky, the French writer Anne Berest, the Korean singer G-Dragon, the American actress Dylan Penn and the British actress Stacy Martin.

A palette of pinks, vibrant oranges and reds, electric blues, zesty yellows, sap greens, blacks and whites adorn the gentle curvatures of the silhouettes in this authentic floral waltz. The jackets are short; the waist is dropped; skirts energetically flare above the knee or skim the ankles pencil-cut and lean against the body. Either veiled by a thin piece of fabric or mantled in wide-brimmed hats as sheer and silken as clouds, these young girls walk the runway in black leather shoe-boots with an air of defying delicacy joined with grounded fire.

Daywear attire comprises of 3⁄4 length-sleeved tweed jackets with rounded shoulders and wide necklines married with a fitting dress or long skirt. Another, perhaps slightly sexier look also incorporating woven tweed, reveals the waists and hips. The pencil skirts and the woven, fringed chiffon dresses are coupled with short blouses and long ethereal coats belted with thin strips of leather. In the heart of this garden, the tulle tunics embroidered entirely by little rhodoid flowers alternate with ensembles of painted linen and sparkle and coats crowned by rich beds of flowers. For eveningwear, sequined skirts and coats are glazed in flowers embroidered from tulle, leather, organza and rhodoid petals with beaded pistils. Long skirts are matched with short tops accompanied by Peter Pan and lavallière collars, or fine pleated blouses. Others, enveloped in feathers, are worn with graceful flower-embroidered bustiers.

Colourful and delicate, the new CHANEL Haute Couture collection solemnly reinvents the rite of spring.

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