FASHION WEEK BERLIN: CAPARA A/W 15
WHAT CREATED YOUR ATTRACTION TOWARDS FASHION?
It was certainly seeing images of the first shows in Paris of Maison Martin Margiela. It was their approach which fascinated us, the conceptual thinking, the freedom of expression, the openness, the humanity in their presentations, stepping away of the vision fashion is about Haute Couture but as well for everybody, for every day. Daring to be different, modern and avant-garde. It was the whole world they succeeded to create with their vision.
WAS THERE A MOMENT IN YOUR LIFE WHEN YOU REALISED YOU WANTED TO BECOME A DESIGNER?
I think that moment was when we started our own label in 2009. Before that we were working for different brands, such as Dries van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela and Jil Sander with Raf Simons. These were all very rewarding experiences and we were able to learn from the Best but only since the birth of CAPARA we feel as we truly can explore the fact of being designers.
WHEN DID ‘FASHION DESIGNER’ BECOME YOUR PROFESSION?
We are ‘fashion designers’ since 1994 when we started to work as assistants in a commercial company in the South of Germany.
WAS THERE A TURNING POINT OR A HAPPENING IN YOUR LIFE THAT IS REFLECTED / RECOGNIZABLE IN YOUR WAY OF DESIGNING?
That turning point was when we decided to apply at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp to study Fashion Design. It felt like starting fresh, trying to erase the past and learning to find yourself, experimenting with different views within yourself with the goal to search for your a unique voice. We were guided by fantastic professors such as Walter van Beirendonck.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO DESCRIBE YOUR SIGNATURE DESIGN?
The best description would be: the love for jackets, coats, blazers, etc. the woman in our world is about outerwear, she chooses first her outerwear piece and according to that what she will wear under it. she treats her outerwear piece like a piece of jewelry, it is not just practical, to keep her warm but it is her statement, shows her individuality and defines her appearance.
HOW MANY RUNWAY SHOWS/PRESENTATIONS HAVE YOU/THE BRAND PRODUCED UNTIL TODAY?
21. of January 2015 was CAPARA’s first runway show. We had several video presentations and two gallery presentations on models in Paris until now.
WHEN WAS THE POINT WHERE YOUR DESIGN WENT FROM A VISION TO BECOME A PROFITABLE BUSINESS MODEL?
It became a profitable business model 3 seasons ago. It took time to create trust towards customers, so that they can follow you a certain period, be sure that you will survive and have the strength to deliver not only a beautiful collection but an even more beautiful production which can be delivered in time.
WHY DO YOU CHOOSE TO SHOW IN BERLIN, WHAT IS THE STRATEGIC REASON ?
Since summer 2014 we are engaged with a new Press and Sales Agency based in Berlin called PRAG PR and they were able to promote our label so that we were chosen to get a fully sponsored show during Berlin Fashion Week. We are very excited about it and will take this opportunity to show our vision in form of a show.
HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE THE FASHION IN BERLIN IN GENERAL?
Fashion in Berlin is less conceptual,we hope with our participation; being trained in Belgium and worked for only Belgian designers, that people will appreciate the conceptual way of working, being driven and always going the full way, not accepting compromises but always staying wearable and never loosing the sight of the product.
IS BERLIN REFLECTED IN YOUR DESIGN OR IS IT A SOURCE OF INSPIRATION FOR THIS COLLECTION?
Berlin reflects for us the new openness, the idea of a world citizen, the borderless thinking and therefor serves as a rich inspiration in the choice of different artists based in Berlin such as Katharina Grosse and many more.
WHAT WAS YOUR VISION OF THIS COLLECTION?
The vision of this collection is to combine different layers of shoulder pieces, our trademark, such as coats, jacket and bombers and create a new look. The main focus will go on all those sorts of shoulder pieces. They all come in own developed colours, materials such as inkjet prints, screen prints, jacquards, matelassés, etc. We were inspired by Viviane Sassen for colours and material mixes, by Katharina Grosse for screen prints, by flemish renaissance Painter Pieter Brueghel for shapes, inkjet print and matelassé.
HOW DID THAT VISION CHANGE DURING THE PROCESS ?
The vision didn’t change during the process, it became stronger and more clear with time.
CAN YOU EXPLAIN YOUR CHOICE OF MATERIALS, SHAPES AND COLOURS FOR THIS COLLECTION ?
The inspiration of this season’s color card was the Dutch Photographer Viviane Sassen. Her unique eye for colour combinations and materials were the starting point for us. The choice of materials resulted in a rich choice of different weights, different structures, different touches, from heavy wools to wool polyester mixes to matt silks to transparent jerseys, leathers and wool knits. It is a nice balance between shiny and matt materials, heavy and light materials, etc. The shapes were inspired by different painters, such as Brueghel. They resulted in oversized trench coats, bomber jackets, blazers next to fitted trousers and lazed dresses and skirts.
WHAT IS THE STRONGEST PIECE/S IN THIS PARTICULAR COLLECTION ?
The strongest piece in this collection would be our new Double Coat in our own developed Multi coloured Wool Jacquard.
PHOTOGRAPHER: Cathleen Wolf