FASHION: JULIA NIKOLAEVA S/S 15
Julia Nikolaeva’s romantic-à la mode décor influences the elegant urban burgess to wear easy attire and adaptable separates that add a fashionable nonchalance to the wearer’s aesthetic. Largely deemed one of Russia’s most important modern designers, Nikolaeva’s integration of political concerns with her eccentric designs is a key component in developing a name as internationally recognized and respected as the one she currently holds. Russia’s first post-Soviet age is among the earliest to employ fashion to culturally reformulate itself – Nikolaeva’s manipulation of fashion design acts chiefly as a mean of communicating, and as an instrument for promoting a new, real democracy.
In a recent interview, the renowned designer noted the year 1992 as a turning point in her career – the threshold of a profitable business model, which had once only existed as a vision. Nikolaeva’s profession propelled into action the day a gypsy woman had stolen money from her – in order to make up for what she had lost, Nikolaeva began to tailor her friends’ skirts. What had started as a dire attempt to reconcile financial troubles, soon transformed into a lifelong project, passion, and title.
According to Nikolaeva, the concept behind the Spring/Summer Collection is Kinetic energy. Her choice of materials, shapes, and colors revolve around the curious interplay of contraposition: the fabrics are both light and heavy, while hues transparent and solid with the intention to blend “colors that state the absence of colors.” Nikolaeva continues to use the runway as a kind of manifesto to which she adds to each season by virtue of her distinguishable sleek aesthetic and political voice. Her latest collection draws on diaphanous material, graphic tops, and shimmering jackets. Her main vision was to communicate freedom through specific symbols such as windows, wings, and wind. The finale was composed of a gust of models in front forceful wind turbines that burst through the translucent fabrics.
This article was made in collaboration with Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia.